GETTING RIGGED
When targeting big flounder, I’d recommend using a conventional outfit with a rod rated for 20-pound-test being ideal. I use a Daiwa levelwind reel with a depth-counter mechanism, which immediately lets me know the precise depth at which I’m receiving strikes. This lets me reposition the boat to the desired depth, since different depths have different temperatures, and flounder often congregate within a very narrow range of their preferred temperature.

Inasmuch as I like to fish around structure -- which is where the big flounder hang out and forage is plentiful -- I opt for 40- or 50-pound-test Sufix or Ande braided line. The braid has no stretch and lets you immediately feel a flatfish picking up the bait. It also reduces the attrition of terminal tackle as a result of snagging bottom. With the heavier test, you can easily pull free, whereas if you were using 20-pound monofilament -- which is thicker than 50-pound braid -- you’d be losing rigs constantly.

During the past several seasons, I’ve chosen to forego using sinkers for the most part. Instead, I’ve switched to chromed ball and torpedo-shaped jigs with a bucktail-dressed hook, favoring the Jelly Bellies, Fluke Bullets and Bait Tails manufactured by Ralph Votta of West End Fishing Tackle. Other favorites are SPRO bucktail jigs in the 3- to 5-ounce sizes.

With both ball jigs and bucktail jigs, I employ a stinger hook trailing the jig, attached with a short piece of leader material with an Owner Dancing Stinger hook, in 3/0 or 4/0 sizes. The front section of the 8- to 10-inch long strip bait is placed on the jig’s J-style hook. The stinger hook is inserted into the strip’s trailing section.

You can use these jigs with just a 3- or 4-foot piece of leader material between the line and the lure. However, I’ve found that by introducing a trailing high-hook strip bait, I’ve caught more flounder. With this rig, I begin with a 5- or 6-foot piece of 40-pound-test fluorocarbon leader material. I’ll tie a small SPRO barrel swivel to one end of the leader and a duo-lock snap to the other end.

Next, I tie a dropper loop into the leader, about 2 feet from the snap. Finally, I cut an Owner Boa Rig’s leader to about 3 feet, with a surgeon’s loop on the end, which I slip onto the dropper loop.

The Boa Rig is available with several hook sizes, and I’ve found the 4/0 or 5/0 hooks are ideal for big squid strips, or for using whole spots or snapper blues as bait.

During the past couple of seasons, I’ve used Berkley’s Gulp! synthetic biodegradable strip baits. These baits emit a great deal of scent, which attracts flounder. The strips come in several colors, and for the most part I’ve opted to use chartreuse. The Gulp! strips come in sheets, which are easily cut to a torpedo shape with a pair of scissors.

On occasion, I slip a 3-inch plastic squid onto the leader of the Boa Rig, and then place the strip bait on the hooks.

I’ve found this to be very effective: As the ball jig or bucktail jig with its strip bounces along the bottom, the Boa Rig flutters along above and to the rear, giving the fish a pair of enticing offerings.

The key in using this rig is keeping your line perpendicular to the bottom as you drift along. I like a fast drift, since it enables me to present my strip baits over a wide expanse of bottom. The faster the drift, the heavier a ball or bucktail jigs I use. This often this means moving up to an 8-ounce jig.

The most successful approach is to move your rod tip gently, causing the jig to lift 6 to 12 inches off the bottom. Bounce it back down while allowing the strips to flutter along enticingly.