Tim Surgent of Neptune tagged and released this estimated 10-pound blackfish. Photo by Gary Caputi

Inside the rubble of an artificial reef site, shipwreck, or some subterranean rocky outcropping, it's dark and murky, a deconstructed playground of twisted beams, concrete and algae-covered rocks. The combination of wreck, rock and rubble builds an underwater skyscraper for myriad species of fish to claim as their lairs.

Seabass, bergalls, conger eels, ling and other residents flit about the area, over, under and around the structure, feeding precariously and trying to make sure they are not going to be fed on. The tower is living, breathing with life. In one of the vacuous black holes, within the rocks and wreck, something stirs. From the front all that is visible is a pair of whitish, rubbery, large lips, which are surrounded by blackness.

A green crab ambles over the rock, in front of the lair housing the menacing lips. The crab creeps along, and then freezes for a split second in front of the hole. Something's wrong. Then it disappears. All that's left in its place is a swirl of water and a beastly apparition, thick and muscular, grinning a devious bucktoothed smile -- it's none other than a tautog.

Tautog or blackfish are the fuel that ignites the proverbial fire for the bottom-fishing industry once the water temps dip into the low 40s to high 50s in the wintertime months. In New Jersey, blackfishing has taken on a revamped personae from the past. It isn't regarded as a byproduct fishery as it once had been. Now it's been elevated into a passionate fervor that the winter months signal a time for boat owners to keep their boats docked for bottom-fishing in the frigid waters, as well as luring legions of hardcore anglers onto the party boats -- all in the pursuit of a meaty, thick bucktoothed fish.

Just how good is blackfishing in New Jersey? Let me put it simply: On Jan. 20, 1998, Anthony Monica wrestled in an epic tautog of 25 pounds off Ocean City. His huge blackfish sported a 34.5-inch length and 28 1/4-inch girth. It is the standing all-tackle world record as we speak. How's that for a world-class fishery?

TALE OF THE 'TOG
Anyone who has seriously angled for blackfish cannot argue against the fact that this species is one of the hardest-fighting fish in the ocean for its size. A formidable member of the wrasse family, even a just-legal 14-inch tautog will give you a run for the money.

New Jersey regulations on tautog are a bit confusing. As it stands, regulations include a 14-inch minimum size limit. Now here is the tricky part. From Jan. 1 to May 31, anglers may keep a bag limit of four fish. From June 1 through Nov. 14, anglers may only take one blackfish home to the table. From Nov. 15 through Dec. 31, anglers may keep an eight-fish bag.

Does that middle period sound kind of unfair? In reality, it is. A one-fish bag limit keeps almost all recreational pressure off the tautog for six months, while the commercial sector continues to catch blackfish in their pots and nets. While Jersey fishermen have to bite the bullet for a six-month period, when the fishery "opens" back up in mid-November, the blackfishing goes ballistic all through February, peaking in January, as long as the water temps stay above 42 degrees. And what you pull up can be very interesting. Depending on how you hit the structure you decide to fish, you can either be into smaller 2- to 4-pound 'tog or bulldogs of gargantuan proportions.